Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Birthday in Algiers

I decided to celebrate my birthday by taking a walk and rocking the Casbah! I walked down the steep stairs and caught a bus headed to Place des Martyrs from where I would walk into the Casbah. The Casbah is actually the oldest part of Algiers and is said to be on top of the ruins of Icosia…the original city that was established here by Hercules and his 20 men eons ago. Famous for intense combat scenes during the revolution that were brought to life in the cult classic film, The Battle of Algiers, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. UNESCO= United Nations Education and Scientific and Cultural Organization. Although it has received this prestigious honor for its ancient architecture and historical legacy, it has a reputation for being dangerous and off limits to foreigners due to muggings. Tourists are advised to go during the day and even then only to certain parts. I decided to get lost in the Casbah. To avoid any problems, I left with little money, but I did take my new Canon digicam. I took some pictures, and did enjoy the walk through the cobblestone pedestrian alleys there, though it’s not as raucous or boisterous as walking through say, Old Sanaa in Yemen or the souks of Aleppo or Damascus in Syria. Nonetheless, there are parts that remind me of The Battle of Algiers there and there are some women with the white lacy handkerchief covering their face. I do intend to return there again to see more of it, and next time with a local in the know, because there is supposed to be some fascinating ancient houses and palaces.

I made my way up and around eventually to la Grande Poste…that magnificent Arabesque architectural delight. From there I decided it was time to try out some bars and have a drink or 3 in honor of my birthday! I went to a place called L’Andalous and had an Algerian beer…Albrau. It was not bad at all, though it’s served in an 8.5 fl. Oz bottle which makes one feel big! Then I tried some Algerian wine. When they serve a glass here, they do their best to fill it to the rim, btw! The crowd was all male and one guy sitting next to me was drinking Stella Artois, the Belgian beer, and reading up on the ponies. So there’s something else I gotta do here eventually, head to the track and place some bets. Algiers, as you can tell, is not what one expects from a reputedly “conservative” Muslim society.

Just to add a bit on that point…hardly any women here cover their face in Algiers. Quite a few wear scarves, but there is quite a variety in the way they are worn. Some wear them conservatively, in outfits that resemble Catholic nuns, while others wear bright colors or leopard skin prints with jeans and tennies or high heels. It’s refreshing to see such forms of personal expression. I often find myself pleasantly surprised or amused while taking notice of these styles on the streets. Then, there are just quite a few Algerian women that do not don any scarf and go about their business as any woman in America or Europe would which is nice too.

Most men dress as men in any big city. Very few wear traditional attire of any sort, though I hear that this changes in the interior of the country.

So after L’Andalousie, I decided to mosey on to another establishment that serves alcohol. The next place I went to, didn’t have a sign up, but it’s on the major street of Didouche Mourad, just a block away from la FAC Centrale. Inside, again, nothing but men. Some played dice, while others just sipped on Stella Artois. Che Guevara décor is quite popular here. In fact, there is a Rue Ernesto Guevara in downtown Algiers. When Algeria was starting out as a new independent nation, Cuba was one of, if not the first to recognize it and provide it with assistance. Cuban doctors came here and helped out for years. Fidel also gave sugar to the newly established independent nation of Algeria.

I tried to go out later, but was not so lucky…apparently to get into the nightclubs here, one must go with company and be dressed to the 9s and be ready to drop some do-re-mi. I went back home but not too dejected, since I was eager to strum my guitar before my doors open to the port of Algiers and a cold beer at my side.

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