Exploring Cherchell and Tipaza

(The Roman ruins of Tipaza)

On Friday, October 19, I made my first solo foray into the Algerian countryside.

Lonely Planet just published its first ever edition guidebook to Algeria in August of this year and I’m putting it to good use. The LP editors suggested some easy day trips to Tipaza and Cherchell, to visit some Roman ruins and take in the mountainous countryside along the Mediterranean Sea. Along the way one sees garden plots of butternut squash, grapes, cabbage, etc., and some are covered. I also saw cyclists, some female too, with all of the slick professional gear on.

(To see my photos click: Photos of Tipaza and Cherchell)

Reminiscent of the seaside terrain in Tunisia and Morocco, beautiful fertile green mountains and hills plane out to the coastal road and towns. Though the lay of the land is similar to its neighbors of the Maghreb, the French flavor of the Algerian towns is la difference. For example, the central mosque in Cherchell , Mosque Ar-Rahman, has a front that resembles the Pantheon with classic columns and roofing.

In addition to such interesting traces of the colonial past, there lies the added attraction of ancient treasures from the time of the Roman Empire when Cherchell was known as Caesarea. The Museum of Cherchell has some incredible marble sculptures, i.e. Cleopatras and Juba etc., and mosaics dating from well before J.C. Wandering around Cherchell, I came upon the remains of the ancient thermal baths, a Forum and a Roman theatre. While looking around, I spontaneously stopped to buy some pirate perfume oil (City by Armani) for 3 bucks. For lunch, I had a plate of 5 little rougets (red snappers), French fries, salad and a bottle of Orangina. ($3.50).

After Friday’s prayer, I caught a bus headed to Tipaza. According to Lonely Planet, Algerian writer Albert Camus wrote that Tipaza was inhabited by the gods in spring of the sun and silvered sea blue sky and flower-covered ruins. Obviously he really liked Tipaza and I can certainly see why, the setting is wonderful. Today, the ruins are still nestled in a hilly pine-tree area just before the deep azure waters of the Mediterranean. Among the ancient remains, one finds an ampitheatre that in the 4th-5th centuries was the scene of gladiator battles and other entertainment. The woods and hills of Tipaza also possess temples to ancient gods, a theatre, more baths, and the Great Christian Basilica which reputedly was the largest Christian structure in North Africa in the 4th Century. Due to strong winds I suppose, some of the trees along the seaside cliffs there have grown sideways so much that they have developed a huge conical form resembling the flared-out hairdo of the bride of Frankenstein. The trees are so big, you can actually walk under the hair!

Only one little snafu on this day trip: Because I was unawares and I had stopped to quench my thirst with a couple of Stella Artois’, I missed the last bus going back to Algiers at 6pm. I ended up having to pay $22 for a taxi ride home. Not a mortal wound, but next time I need to make sure I have time to get home. Basketball fans will be interested to know that in Tipaza there was an NBA Finals MVP sighting. Not in person, of course, but a Tony Parker rap video for a song called “Premier Love” came on the muted bar TV. I couldn’t hear it, because the volume was muted and a stereo played some hip Algerian music that the bartendress was singing along to.

Night fell and I slept on the taxi ride home.